May 13, 2008

What I will miss about Boston

The short answer, of course, is that I will miss all my friends here. After 4 years in New England, I’ve finally reached the point where I can walk down the street and bump into someone I know.

But after a walk today through Harvard Yard and up Tory Row, I realized how much I will miss the physical beauty of the city’s streets. We’ve been driven from Boston by foul weather and excitement of the possibility of doing some good in DC, but we leave knowing we are leaving the most beautiful and stately city in the US. In no particular order, here are some things I will miss.
1. The cold snow on the bronze statues in Harvard Yard.
2. The crazy neighbor in Porter Square who would leave her excess books on the wall outside her triple-decker. I feel like I learned the deep psychic baggage of this woman from her cast-off literature.
3. How I once found a copy of King Lear in the gutter, and decided to sit on a bench and read it.
4. The state of the tortoise actually beating the hare in a foot race, Copley Square.
5. Walking along Fort Point Channel at night, admiring the city skyline and trying to figure out why there were so many jellyfish there.
6. The crustiness of Haymarket on the weekend, with its subterranean shops.
7. Eavesdropping on Click and Clack’s conversation while at the Café Paradiso, may it rest in peace.
8. Drinking grappa at the Café Algiers, and writing for hours.
9. Walking across Longfellow Bridge, and thinking about William Faulkner.
10. The crazy polyglot mob trying to shop at Market Basket in Somerville.
11. Dim Sum at an old vaudeville theatre turned into the most garnish Chinese banquet hall imaginable.
12. Bow Street and Arrow Street. Just the fact that they exist, and cross near the lovely Café Pampalona.

May 06, 2008

The best preface I've ever read

Recently on a whim I picked up my copy of Edward Said’s Orientalism. For this 25th anniversary edition of the book Said wrote a new Preface, with the events of September 11th and the Iraq war in his mind. The result seems to me today to be one of the best Prefaces I’ve ever read. Two passages in the first paragraph strike me as beautiful. First, he makes a self-mocking comment about “the necessary diminutions in expectations and pedagogic zeal that usually frame the road to seniority.” Second, he writes of the will to go on in the face of adversity not as “a matter of being optimistic, but rather of continuing to have faith in the ongoing and literately unending process of emancipation and enlightenment that… frames and gives direction to the intellectual vocation.”

This is a stirring declaration of the purpose of academia and intellectual life which I can say from experience is absent from many faculty (but not all, by any means). What he essentially does in the rest of the Preface is contrast this search for truth from the stories that sheer ideology would tell. His point is that the US approached its adventure in Iraq in much the same way the French and the British mentally thought about the “Orient, … that semi-mythical construct, which … has been made and remade countless times by power acting through an expedient form of knowledge to assert that this is the Orients nature, and we must deal with it accordingly.”

In the end, Said is making a last stand for the intellectual vocation as humanism, as a search for truth. And in essence he is admitting that in the US today we are losing that battle: “Reflection, debate, rational argument, moral principle based on a secular notion that human beings must create their own history have been replaced by abstract ideas that celebrate American or Western exceptionalism, denigrate the relevance of context, and regard other cultures with derisive contempt.” What I love about the essay is that Said is simultaneously attacking American exceptionalism and postmodernism as both being incompatible with the search for truth.

April 24, 2008

Stockholm postcard: April 18

This city is, above all else, clean and orderly and beautiful in its well-designed simplicity. I’ve had almost a week in Stockholm, and I’ve fallen in love with the brightly colored medieval homes lined up against the dark Baltic Sea. But what strikes an American about Stockholm is how well-run it seems to be, even down to the way passengers get on and off the metro trains. It’s almost a ritual: at each stop those remaining seated swing their knees towards the aisle to allow those who are departing to get out, and then everyone seated switches seats towards the window seats, to allow new riders who are coming on the train easy access to a seat. Sounds simple, but it is so far from the rudeness of the Boston subway.

As I write that sentence, I know it sounds clichéd, but it’s what really struck me first about Sweden. Some other observations: Sweden has the best bathrooms in the world. The custom is that instead of having little cubicles, each toilet is in a little room covered floor to ceiling with white tile. What’s even better, there’s a real door to the room that really locks, and each little room has its own small sink. Given that the rooms are so private, there’s a tendency for some places to just mark all the rooms as unisex, which makes perfect sense but it stills takes some getting used to for us Americans!

Another thing that is clear it the Swedish people’s love of the environment. Several conservations I had in cafes suggested that the average person here knows a great deal about global warming, for example, and believes the world should do a great deal to fight it. They also clearly love to get out and hike in their woods and gardens, albeit after often driving there in rather large and posh SUVs. I wonder why SUVs have grown so popular in Stockholm, while they are still exceedingly rare in Paris.